Darrol at Great Wall


Darrol in China

 Postings and pictures while studying at Peking University (Beida) in  Beijing, China from Darrol Butler, a Geography and Asian Studies  student at CSU Chico.


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5/15/06
China Update #12 by Darrol Butler 


Dear Family, Friends, Fellow Students, and Professors: 

Email Update for May 1 & 15, 2006 

Yangtze River...     My mother and our friend Thomas came to visit me for the weeklong Chinese Labor Day holiday.  Because I am a geography major, and Thomas majored in water resource management we decided to take advantage of our proximity and go to see the Yangtze River, the Three Gorges and the Three Gorges Dam.  Additionally, because the water level is rising at such a fast rate, we also thought it important to see the Three Gorges before they are mostly submerged, and catch a glimpse of the construction work on the dam before it is done.  Besides the three of us, my friend Mike (currently studying in Chengdu) met up with us in Chongqing (Chungking), and my Chinese friend Juice (her English name) came along to finally realize her dream of seeing the famous Three Gorges as well as to help facilitate the trip by translating anything Mike and I couldn’t understand, and helping us to bargain better prices for everything from boat tickets, to daily food purchases. 

Because the Three Gorges Dam is quickly nearing completion of the construction phase of the dam, the water level in the Yangtze River is rising rapidly.  Currently the water is around 140 meters above the original level, and we floated past water level marker signs showing that the water level would rise to as much as 175 meters.  As many of you may already know, the Three Gorges Dam is located on the Yangtze River which is called Changjiang by the Chinese and translates to “Long River.”  Indeed it is the third longest river in the world, after the Nile and the Amazon.  The dam itself is just about two kilometers long, and has a height of 185 meters.  In addition to having two, five stage locks, the dam also has a single 3000 ton ship lift built into it. 

Mom, Thomas, Juice and I flew into Chongqing where we met up with Mike, and where we ended up catching our boat for the trip down the Yangtze.  Chongqing seemed to be a very lively, modern city, and was a nice reprieve from Beijing.  In addition to all of the business activity there were many youths out on the streets shopping, eating and just enjoying the day.  Of course part of the reason for the number of people on the streets  was that we showed up during the weeklong Labor Day holiday.  One of the things I found unusual about Chongqing was the lack of bicycle traffic on the streets.  Later I realized that there are not that many bikes in Chongqing because of its steep hilly topography.  Chongqing’s streets are lined with vendors selling all kinds of small snacks and tropical fruits, many of which are carried up and down the steep streets by porters who pick them up at the docks.  I truly wish we had more time to spend in Chongqing, if only to try more of the snacks. 

We boarded a boat that had around 350-400 people on it, of which 12 (including us 4) were foreigners.  Our trip down the river started at 8:00pm so that the schedule would be timed right to catch all of the gorges during the daylight hours.  Leaving Chongqing at night was quite spectacular because the city lights, as seen from our boat, were very impressive.  For the next three days we floated down the river at a pace that was slow enough for us to really appreciate the Chinese countryside.  On deck we chatted amongst ourselves as well as tried our best to carry on conversations with the other passengers.  A few times Mike and I got out the two hacky sacks my mother made and started a game of footbag on deck.  At one point we had a small circle of people playing with us, including a young Chinese girl and boy.  It was really a lot of fun. 

The Three Gorges themselves were magnificent, and it is easy to see how they stirred the emotions of countless Chinese poets and painters.  Many of the mountain faces were made up of very steep, sometimes sheer slopes and they were also covered in lush vegetation.  In addition many of the mountains lining the gorges were topped with fanciful rock outcroppings which seemed to beckon to me and my camera.  I was also fascinated with watching the countryside role by because it seemed as if every possible open space was devoted to agriculture.  Not only were the banks of the river used for food production, but what seemed to me like impossibly steep slopes were also put into agricultural use using the terracing method. 

While we passed through many heavily farmed areas, we also floated by quite a few villages and cities, as well as numerous industrial areas.  The first night we went past an area that was completely lit up but the persistent fog kept me from getting a good view of what kind of industrial activity was taking place.  However, I could hear the coming and going of barges as well as the rumbling of machinery.  In addition, upon entering the area I detected a strong chemical smell, which ended up making my throat dry and even slightly stung my eyes.  I only wish that we could have passed by the area during the day time in order to get a better look at what was going on. 

A majority of the barges we saw on the river were carrying coal.  However we regularly passed covered barges as well as barges loaded with containers making it hard for us to determine the contents.  Interestingly enough sometimes on the cliffs lining the river banks we could make out cement walled holding areas for coal, which had long metal chutes attached to them to transfer coal, using the force of gravity, down to waiting barges. 

We passed by many cities straddling both banks of river.  One thing that continuously surprised me when passing through these cities was the near lack of bridges connecting the two halves of the cities.  When our boat docked at ports I was able to see that most of the river crossings were done by ferries.  Another thing I noticed was that in anticipation of the continual rise of the water level, all of the banks are being lined with concrete.  Additionally we passed by many cities that had already had their lower sections demolished or moved up to higher ground.  

After stopping at a few temples and cities on the way, we finally reached the Three Gorges Dam on the third day of our trip.  We disembarked at Maoping, directly upstream from the dam, and took a waiting bus to the dam visiting area.  Though the distance from where we docked to the dam was not far, it took us an hour to reach the visiting area because the road was in terrible condition due to constant construction on the dam, and we frequently had to wait for large trucks, loaded down with equipment and machinery, to pass us by.  In addition the bus had to stop at several security points for our tour guide to get off and show her official tour guide license.  The Three Gorges Dam was absolutely impressive.  It is so massive and overwhelming in size that it is hard to fathom the scale of the whole project at once.  The bus took us by the two, five stage locks and then up to a viewing area just below the face of the dam.  After getting to walk around below the dam for a few minutes we were herded back onto the busses and then taken to a visiting center with a vista.  At the vista point we could look directly down at the locks as well as out across the top of the dam.  Finally we were taken to a site just opposite the top of the dam where we could look down on the upstream side of it and the construction still going on there.  There were numerous cranes still in place working on the dam, and I could see welding going on everywhere.  I was quite surprised however, to see workers using poles to carry large boulders with which they were lining the banks of the reservoir butting up against the dam.  It was quite an amazing experience, though if I get the chance to go back I hope I can go independently or with a tour that will allow me more than five to ten minutes at each of the visiting sites around the dam.  Obviously that short amount of time is just not enough to get a real sense of the enormity of the Three Gorges Dam project. 

Until the next email update, take care, and thanks for reading, 

Darrol Butler

hairyleprechaun@gmail.com 

My new address:
Darrol Butler
c/o Office of CSU International Programs
Shao Yuan, Building 2, Room 101

Peking University
Haidian District, Beijing, 100871
China

Yangzte River Trip Photos